Imagine 450 kilometers of front in the dead of the northern winter. Ukraine and Putin’s Russia glare at each other across a no-man’s-land. An endless, deadly confrontation. From Pisky to Luhansk and Donetsk, soldiers—and reporters—stand in muddy trenches. Residents hunker down in their homes to avoid being picked off by Russian snipers. The largely ignored war is at the gates of Europe. A closed Europe dreamed of by Ukrainians left to their fate.